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From “Fonske” <amlozano@iies.es> Date Monday, July 12, 2004 21:42 To “List of contacts” Subject à bord de l'ural dear all, the train has
been comfortable, surprinsingly comfortable. it's called "ural". it's a name
that already calls me to epic. we have finished our first step with no more
that the moscow excitation and the touch that the stations leave on me,
plentyful of smells-tastes-colours, like a delightful dish. time passes
chatting, playing chess, reading or sleeping. the tracks run most of the
time through a aisle made of trees. when i reach the smoking area, a small cubicle among two carriages, a russian appears and offers me a cigarrette. our communication is very limited. i manage to understand that he's coming from chchenia - bang bang bang - is all what i really understand. it's hard to believe that this huge russian comes from caucasus, of making real all the myths from nineteenth century. but i do agree to recognize it's true when he shows me a the shot scars crossing his belly and back. now. everytime i go to the smoking room, full un unbreathable air, the veteran soldier smiles as if we were accomplice of some kalashnikov. the train is alive, it has its own personality. train has its lunch time. gets angry or happy. sometimes it looks to run with difficulty. some others is smart. in some occasions seems asleep, as if the tracks carry it. it slips as if they were made of grease. train behaviours depends on subtle aspects of its passengers. provodnitsas, the way you walk in the corridors or how the driver steers, the manner you use the samovar to prepare you tea or coffe. train noises change on its mood, on the road. at the ural, moscow still seems near when you already are fifteen hundred kilometres away across european russia. it's half afternoon, warm weather. ural has throwed us over yekaterinburg. the hugs and the kisses, fonske.
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